Fact checked by Sarah Scott

• Retinol can improve acne and signs of aging, but it works best with consistent, long-term use.
• Start with a low-strength retinol once or twice weekly to help minimize irritation.
• Dryness and even temporary breakouts are common at first, but they usually improve over time.

Retinol is widely considered one of the most effective over-the-counter (OTC) skincare ingredients you can use. It can help improve the appearance of fine lines, even out skin tone, and reduce acne—but it’s also known for causing dryness and irritation when you first start using it.

That doesn’t necessarily mean you need to steer clear of the product. Experts say retinol can be an extremely useful tool in your skincare routine—but there are a few things to keep in mind when starting the treatment.

What Exactly Is Retinol?

“Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A,” Rebecca Bialas, MD, MPH, board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of CLARA Dermatology, told Health.

Vitamin A is the umbrella term for a family of skincare ingredients called retinoids, which are considered the “gold standard” of anti-aging and acne treatments. You can buy some types of retinoids over the counter (retinyl esters, retinol, and retinaldehyde or retinal), but the strongest form (retinoic acid) is only available in prescription form.

The products you often see on store shelves are made with retinol. “Retinol is a milder, more gentle formulation that can be obtained without a prescription,” said Bialas.

Retinoids, including retinol, work by changing how your skin cells grow and renew themselves. “Retinol increases cell turnover, exfoliating the skin which clears clogged pores,” Ava Shamban, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of AVA MD Dermatology and SKIN FIVE Medical Spas, told Health. “Retinol [also] boosts the production of collagen and elastin, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.”

But while retinol is a highly effective skincare ingredient, it still comes with some risks and can take some trial and error before you find the right routine. Here’s what dermatologists want you to know.

1. Most People Can Use Retinol—Even Those With Sensitive Skin

A common assumption about retinol is that people with sensitive skin can’t (or shouldn’t) use it—but it can actually be helpful for most people.

“We can typically get most of our patients using a retinol, even those who are sensitive, but it takes time and patience to begin using retinols correctly,” said Bialas. “The exception here is patients with severe rosacea or extremely sensitive skin.”

While dryness or irritation can happen when someone begins using retinol, starting slowly—just using it once or twice a week at night—can allow the skin to ease into it.

“When you’re first starting to use a retinol, start 2-3 times a week, or once a week if you’re super sensitive,” said Bialas. “After you’ve tolerated that frequency for a few weeks, try increasing slowly, maybe to every other night. Eventually, you can work up to applying a retinol nightly, but it can take months to get there.”

2. You Only Need a Pea-Sized Amount

More retinol isn’t better—a little bit goes a long way.

“I tell my patients to put a pea-sized amount on their index finger, and then use that to make five smaller dots around their face: forehead, nose, each cheek, and chin,” said Bialas. “Then, gently rub in those smaller dots to ensure that you’re getting a thin even coat everywhere, avoiding the eye area.”

You can safeguard even more against irritation by pairing your retinol with a hydrating moisturizer.

“Typically, after you wash and dry your face, you can apply the retinol and follow with a moisturizer,” said Bialas. “Some people who are more sensitive might benefit from flipping this order (moisturizer first, retinol on top), as another way of minimizing the irritation that can happen as you are getting used to using a retinol.”

3. Start Slowly—And With the Right Strength for Your Skin

Retinoids and retinols aren’t one-size-fits-all—the strength of the product will depend on your skin and skincare goals.

OTC retinol products come in a range of strengths, commonly from about 0.1% to 1%. If you’re new to retinol or have sensitive skin, dermatologists generally recommend starting with a lower concentration and increasing gradually if your skin tolerates it.

“I recommend using a retinol with a concentration of 0.25% to 1%,” said Shamban. “If you have sensitive skin, the lower concentration the better.”

If you have other skin concerns, like acne—or if your skin eventually tolerates retinol well—you may benefit from a stronger formulation, said Bialas. Prescription strength retinoids, like tretinoin or tazarotene, come in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 0.1%. You’ll need to have a conversation with a dermatologist before you start a more intense retinoid.

4. Your Skin Might ‘Purge’ at First

When you start retinol, the most common side effects are dryness, redness, peeling, and irritation, especially during the first few weeks.

“If the irritation becomes too intense, skip a few applications and allow your skin to calm down, and then resume at a slower pace,” said Bialas.

Some people may also experience what’s known as “skin purging,” which happens because of increased cell turnover. Any oil and debris trapped in your pores is quickly brought to the surface.

“Sometimes, this looks like a breakout; whiteheads or new pimples can appear on the skin,” said Bialas. “Don’t think of these as totally new breakouts though; typically, these are pimples that have been brewing beneath the surface and would have appeared over time anyway.”

Skin purging doesn’t happen to everyone, but if it does, it can take a few weeks to clear up, said Bialas.

5. Finding the Right Routine May Take Some Trial and Error

The first retinol you try may not be the one you stick with—it’s OK if finding the right one takes some experimenting.

Finding the right retinol may involve trying different products or treatment approaches, depending on your skin type, acne severity, age, and medical history, said Shamban. Working with a board-certified dermatologist can help speed up that process.

You’ll also want to look at the rest of your skincare routine. Some retinol products are combined with ingredients like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). Using multiple active ingredients at once can increase the risk of irritation, so Bialas generally recommends choosing a product where retinol is the main active ingredient.

The exception here is when retinol is combined with hyaluronic acid. “Hyaluronic acid can help the skin to retain moisture and potentially make the retinol more tolerable and less drying to the skin,” said Bialas.

6. Don’t Expect Results Overnight

Retinol isn’t a quick fix. While your skin may need a few weeks to adjust, visible improvements often take three to six months of consistent use. That’s why dermatologists recommend thinking of retinol as a long-term investment in your skin rather than a product that delivers overnight results.

“Remember, you are playing the long game here,” Bialas said. “With proper use, you can use your retinol for the rest of your life and continue to see the benefits in the form of brighter, clearer, firmer skin.”

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